Cruising the Canals:
Hop aboard a glass-topped tour boat for a cruise on Amsterdam’s storied canals. From this vantage point, you get the best possible view of all those gabled Golden Age merchants’ houses. Ignore anyone who tells you it’s a tourist trap — it is a tourist trap, I suppose, but it got that way by being justifiably popular.
Biking the City:
To pass for an authentic Amsterdammer, pick up a bicycle so ancient, rusted, and worn that no self-respecting thief would waste a second of his time trying to steal it (ah, but he will). Then charge into the ruckus of trams, cars, buses, and other bikes. Better yet, rent a bicycle that’s in decent condition — and go carefully.
Popping a Herring:
Amsterdam folk like their herring fresh and raw from a neighborhood fish stall. The best in the business is Van Altena. Eat your fish in the approved Dutch manner — whole, holding the fish by its tail, with your face to that wide Holland sky. Amsterdammers prefer theirs chopped, with onion.
Visiting the Anne Frankhuis:
The clear and haunting words of a young Jewish girl trying to survive and grow in unimaginable circumstances have moved millions since they were first published in the aftermath of World War II. It’s a melancholy but unforgettable experience to spend a reflective moment in Anne Frank’s stark hideout from Nazi terror.
Visiting the Flower Market:
The vast array of flowers and potted plants in their “floating” home on the Singel canal comprises the city’s largest and most colorful plant assortment. (if it’s still there due to cold weather)
Whiffing a “Coffeeshop”:
It’s true — smoking marijuana is officially tolerated in Amsterdam’s “smoking coffeeshops.” These aren’t your neighborhood cafes, and they’re not for everyone, but they’re an established part of Amsterdam’s alternative tradition. You’ll be able to buy and smoke marijuana inside, and no law-enforcement agency will hassle you.
Riding a Canal Bike:
Lifelong Amsterdammers — and even expats who ought to know better but aim to pass as natives — scoff long and loud at this. Let them. Pedal yourself through the water for an hour or two on your own private pedalo. Go at your own speed to view the canals in style (not much style, I’ll admit).
Trying a Rijsttafel:
Dutch settlers in the East Indies created the banquet-style “rice table.” Comprising from 10 to 30 little dishes, some as fiery as rocket exhaust, a rijsttafel is a great introduction to Indonesian cuisine.
Skating the Canals:
When the canals freeze — it doesn’t happen every winter — you’ll find few locals who’ll argue against the proposition that God is a Dutchman. Giving Amsterdammers the chance to go around on ice is one of the few ways to pry them off their bicycles. Strap on a pair of long-bladed noren skates and join them.
Walking on the Wild Side:
Stroll through De Wallen to examine the quaint 16th-century canal architecture, peruse secondhand bookstores, and observe inhabitants as they walk their dogs, ride their bikes to the shops, take the kids to school. Oh, and since this is the Red Light District, you’re bound to see certain minimally attired women watching the world go by through red-tinted windows.
Viewing Golden Age Paintings:
Usually it costs a bundle to see paintings from the Old Masters period of Dutch art. An exception is the multiple images of Civic Guards companies hanging in the Schuttersgalerij of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum.
Meeting Van Gogh: Van Gogh Museum:
The world’s largest collection of Vincent’s works is housed here — some 200 paintings and 500 drawings — ranging from Sunflowers to earless self-portraits. Here, you can trace this great, tragic painter’s artistic and psychological development.
Visiting the Begijnhof:
There’s a price to pay for stepping into the cloistered community that for centuries has been a residence for women of “sound character.” You need to be tolerably quiet and comport yourself with dignity — or you’ll get tossed out by the guards.
Taking in a Lunchtime Rehearsal Concert:
If you can live with the occasional duff note and a program that doesn’t always follow the script, treat your ears to classical music from 12:30 to 1pm at the Muziektheater (Tues) and the Concertgebouw (Wed), every week from October to June.
Beaching About Zandvoort:
Come rain, hail, or shine (and often enough, all three on the same day), Amsterdammers ride the rails for a short hop out to its brassy — but not classy — coastal resort. The bracing North Sea air blows away all that marijuana smoke.
Wandering through De Wallen:
Just below the low-life sin section of “The Walls” — that is, the Red Light District — is a contrast: this delightful southern district of Old Amsterdam encompasses tranquil canals lined with handsome 16th-century houses and the University of Amsterdam’s bustling campus.
Sailing the IJ Ferry:
The short ferryboat ride across the IJ channel between Centraal Station and Amsterdam-Noord (North) is a great little cruise and provides a good view of the harbor.